Budgie Cages - Budgie Cage Questions

Question: i have 3 pairs of budgie were 2 pairs has lay-ed eggs.........?

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Answer #1:

I am having a hard time understanding what you are saying or asking? I breed in individual cages. Parakeets want to pick and fight all the time. Hens want to go to the same nest. Separate them to individual breeding cages if you want to raise babies. A hen that lays in the aviary instead of the nest usually doesn't have a nest hole. There might be other nest but the other birds may own them. Now if you had six to eight nest boxes for those three pair you might have better success.

The problem is who are the parents to the babies that are raised in the aviary? They will cross mate, they will lay in somebody else's nest box. Someone else will lay in their nest.

I presently have 75 babies under 14 pairs of breeders. These are all first time breeders. If they would have been in an aviary situation like you have I would have maybe 15 babies in the nest.

Answer #2:

In an aviary I used to always provide 2 nesting boxes per hen so they had choice. If possible don't put the boxes too close together. If you put some native branches in the aviary they have a happier environment and love to fossick and chew the branches. They will feel more protected and relaxed. The birds like privacy whilst nesting but you will sometimes find that some hens get very territorial over a particular nest hence the need for extra boxes. It is a good idea to provide 'egg and biscuit' for your birds whilst nesting and raising their young. You can buy this at your pet shop or make your own. The pet shop variety should be fortified with vitamins and much easier to provide.
Hope this helps.

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Budgie Cage Requirements

Budgie cage requirements, what bird cages to avoid, recommended budgie cages...

Budgie Cage Requirements:

The cage should not be made of toxic metals such as zinc, lead, or brass (wet brass tarnishes - this tarnish is toxic). Stainless steel is best or powder-coated.
Do not put your budgie in a cage that is rusted or has chipping paint.
If you find an old cage in the attic, basement, trash-picking, or at a yard sale that only has a few rusty patches or a little chipping paint and you want to re-paint it for your budgie - DON'T. Throw it out and get a new cage on eBay. The cost of getting a cage sanded down and then powder-coated is more than you would pay for a new cage on eBay.
Big enough for the budgie to not only fully turn around and spread out their wings, but to fly from one side to another - a absolute minimum of 18x18x24.. Buy the biggest cage you can afford. Parrot cages are MUCH cheaper online than they are in the petstore. Please check ebay for new parrot cages at great prices!
Horizontal bars because budgies love to climb!
Width is more important than height as budgies fly horizontally.
Bar spacing should be no wider than 1/2 inch so that the budgie doesn't get their head stuck between the bars. Their heads are smaller than they look!
No round cages - a budgie doesn't feel safe in a round cage - there is no back wall to retreat to. Along the same lines, be sure there is a wall behind at least one side of the cage.
A good size rectangular cage is best - the palace shape or house shapes actually restrict the room the budgie has to fly and play and create a mess of poop and food the others do not.
Do not place the cage next to a window. Drafts can cause the budgie to become sick. Keep the cage out of direct sunlight.
Place the cage in a room you spend alot of time in (though not the kitchen - because of fumes and hot unsafe surfaces) but that will be quiet at night.
Budgies require alot of mental stimulation. Be sure they have lots of fun toys and that you rotate the toys frequently so that they do not become bored and so they get used to change.
Budgie-proof the room the budgie will be flying in by making sure no open water surfaces, open windows/doors, uncurtained windows, other pets, etc will harm them.
Be sure to cover the cage at night to provide darkness and a secure cover to prevent night-frights.
Several perches of varying widths are necessary to promote healthy feet and legs and to prevent foot sores caused by plain wooden dowels. We recommend the wood branch perches and rope perches.
Avoid: sand perch covers (cause foot sores), mite protectors (cause respiratory illness), bedding (breeds fungus and can cause crop impaction when injested) - paper towels or plain newsprint are best so you can watch poops for health.
Covered food and water dishes so budgies don't poop in them and get sick.
Cuttle bone to chew on. It's good for their beaks and provides needed calcium.
Use pipe cleaners or twist ties to secure all cage doors and windows. Budgies are smart little buggers and can quickly and easily figure out how to give themselves some unsupervised out time!
Place the best wood perches up high - and the stone ones that are good for toe nail health down low. Budgies like to be up high and will spend most of their time on the nicer perches that are good for their feet. We don't recommend using the wooden dowels that come with cages for anything other than step-ups and collecting budgies from around the room to return to their cages.
Make sure there is a food bowl for each budgie in the cage so that they don't have to fight over it or the dominant budgie doesn't let the other budgies near the food.
If you are going to have several budgies in the same cage - it's better to move them at the same time rather than moving a new bird into another's birds cage to avoid territorial issues.

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