Budgie Cages

Budgie Cages - Budgie Cage Questions

Budgie Cages - Budgie Cage Questions



Question: should I try and get my budgie out the cage yet?


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Answer #1:

Is this a euphemism? Get that budgie out, then put him back in again, then out again, then in again in and out of the cage, maybe try putting him in from behind the cage.

Do it, do it now.

Answer #2:

Moving up and down the perch is a sign of anxiety and it would be a good idea if he could be given some freedom. I recommend that you buy a 'landing stage' to go beside the door of the cage to give him the ability of returning to his cage when he is out. Make your room safe:
No open windows or doors
Windows covered with blinds or net curtains
No fires on - fireplace covered.
Look for traps where he may fall e.g. behind cupboards or TV and deal with them .
Bring him out gently, covering his wings so he can't fly off immediately, then place him on top of his cage. He will fly around erratically at first and may bump into walls etc, but once he has got the lie of the room, he will be able to exercise and may even return to the cage himself.

You may find that he is try and perch as high as possible in the room e.g on the lightshade or the top of a cupboard, so make sure you have something steady to stand on to reach him.

Enjoy your new pet!

Answer #3:

Have your birds wings clipped for safety reasons. Then let the little guy out! Get a play stand and take it from room to room with you (you can make one yourself or purchase one), let him ride on your shoulder, get a perch that sticks to a window. The more time your bird has out of it's cage, the happier it will be. Birds love mental stimulation. Safely being in a new room with new sights gives your bird a well deserved change from being stuck in the same old cage day after day. Your budgie is your pet not your prisoner! Your off to an awesome start already!

Edit: Good, good, good! Try using treat bribes to get your bird used to your hand and coming out. You can sit next to the cage and talk sweetly, move slowly, use a treat to lour your bird out of the cage. Over time he will come out on his own looking for a treat from your hand and see your hand as a good thing. Once out of the cage on his own consistently, try the step up command, taking your finger and pushing up against the bottom breast bone while saying up. Once the bird is up give it a snack and praise. After your bird understands that command, try the latter by transferring the bird slowly from one index finger to the other one just above the 1st one and over and over saying UP each time. Once you master that you can do the down command. This will take lots of time, maybe even months. Try several times a day for no longer than 10-20 minuets at a time, that way it helps keep your birds stress down. Be consistent and remember to do this daily. Remember food is a powerful training tool. Even a sunflower seed is enough to get your birds attention.

Answer #4:

I would recommend that you take him in for a wing trim first of all especially if he is going to be out of his cage, to prevent any accidents form happening to him. You may also want to take it slower if you have only had him tow days. Just sit by his cage and talk to him read out loud etc, I would then find his favorite treat, usually millet seed which is sold by the spray, and hold it outside the cage so he can reach it to snack on it.

Try to avoid direct eye contact with your little budgie as they are prey animals direct eye contact could be perceived as a threat and make for some fear/flight issues. You want to gain his trust and become part of the flock.

Try placing the millet seed in the palm of your hand while in the cage if he will stand on it and just get him used to that, you want to gain his trust and reward him for being on your hand. Once he is comfortable with that process, just try and leave the door open and allow him to come out on his own, to him your big hand is just a threat and of course he wants to fly away from it at the first chance he gets. Continue to build trust, take your time, get his wings trimmed and get as much information about budgies you can, they are fun comical birds, enjoy your new budgie. Just take it slow and easy gain his trust and before you know it you will be the best of friends.

Answer #5:

if it is anxiaty try moving the cage also you may want to try rewarding him with food when he is out of the cage to show him thats a good thing also talk to him softly and hold him close to you so he feelss more secure





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Budgie Cage Requirements

Budgie cage requirements, what bird cages to avoid, recommended budgie cages...

    Budgie Cage Requirements:
  • The cage should not be made of toxic metals such as zinc, lead, or brass (wet brass tarnishes - this tarnish is toxic). Stainless steel is best or powder-coated.
  • Do not put your budgie in a cage that is rusted or has chipping paint.
  • If you find an old cage in the attic, basement, trash-picking, or at a yard sale that only has a few rusty patches or a little chipping paint and you want to re-paint it for your budgie - DON'T. Throw it out and get a new cage on eBay. The cost of getting a cage sanded down and then powder-coated is more than you would pay for a new cage on eBay.
  • Big enough for the budgie to not only fully turn around and spread out their wings, but to fly from one side to another - a absolute minimum of 18x18x24.. Buy the biggest cage you can afford. Parrot cages are MUCH cheaper online than they are in the petstore. Please check ebay for new parrot cages at great prices!
  • Horizontal bars because budgies love to climb!
  • Width is more important than height as budgies fly horizontally.
  • Bar spacing should be no wider than 1/2 inch so that the budgie doesn't get their head stuck between the bars. Their heads are smaller than they look!
  • No round cages - a budgie doesn't feel safe in a round cage - there is no back wall to retreat to. Along the same lines, be sure there is a wall behind at least one side of the cage.
  • A good size rectangular cage is best - the palace shape or house shapes actually restrict the room the budgie has to fly and play and create a mess of poop and food the others do not.
  • Do not place the cage next to a window. Drafts can cause the budgie to become sick. Keep the cage out of direct sunlight.
  • Place the cage in a room you spend alot of time in (though not the kitchen - because of fumes and hot unsafe surfaces) but that will be quiet at night.
  • Budgies require alot of mental stimulation. Be sure they have lots of fun toys and that you rotate the toys frequently so that they do not become bored and so they get used to change.
  • Budgie-proof the room the budgie will be flying in by making sure no open water surfaces, open windows/doors, uncurtained windows, other pets, etc will harm them.
  • Be sure to cover the cage at night to provide darkness and a secure cover to prevent night-frights.
  • Several perches of varying widths are necessary to promote healthy feet and legs and to prevent foot sores caused by plain wooden dowels. We recommend the wood branch perches and rope perches.
  • Avoid: sand perch covers (cause foot sores), mite protectors (cause respiratory illness), bedding (breeds fungus and can cause crop impaction when injested) - paper towels or plain newsprint are best so you can watch poops for health.
  • Covered food and water dishes so budgies don't poop in them and get sick.
  • Cuttle bone to chew on. It's good for their beaks and provides needed calcium.
  • Use pipe cleaners or twist ties to secure all cage doors and windows. Budgies are smart little buggers and can quickly and easily figure out how to give themselves some unsupervised out time!
  • Place the best wood perches up high - and the stone ones that are good for toe nail health down low. Budgies like to be up high and will spend most of their time on the nicer perches that are good for their feet. We don't recommend using the wooden dowels that come with cages for anything other than step-ups and collecting budgies from around the room to return to their cages.
  • Make sure there is a food bowl for each budgie in the cage so that they don't have to fight over it or the dominant budgie doesn't let the other budgies near the food.
  • If you are going to have several budgies in the same cage - it's better to move them at the same time rather than moving a new bird into another's birds cage to avoid territorial issues.








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