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Question: How do I get my budgies to like me?

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Answer #1:

I noticed the same thing when I had a budgie a while back and I bought him a friend. You should have their wings clipped so if they fly they don't fly far, and take them both out of the cage so they both get used to you. Put a towel on your arm and let them sit on that, so if they bite, you won't feel it so much. I noticed they don't tend to fly off if they are on a towel for some reason.

Answer #2:

maybe put food in your hand and slowly put your hand in the cage and see what happens. thats what i did with my parakeets

Answer #3:

Do a small tribal dance around your budgie cage whilst setting fire to a feather of your budgie.
Place the feather by the cage (preferably by something wooden) and run away. Sit outside your house (rocking yourself on the floor helps tame stress) until there is a serious fire (if there is not a serious fire within 3 hours, retern to house and pour petrol on floor & relight). Then, break through the door and retern to your budgies. Get them out of the cage and run outside again.
Your budgies will be greatful that you saved them. Plus, they wont bite you because they are likely to be too weak to open their beaks.

Worked for me.

Answer #4:

Sometimes, when you take in a second bird (of the same species as your first), the two will bond and even become territorial against you. It's a horrible situation, but socializing with the two of them is what will prevent this from happening.
For starters, I think you should consider getting both birds' wings trimmed. Some people are extremely against this idea for the sake that the bird will not be able to fly for a temporary amount of time which takes away the "wild instinct" all birds have; to fly. But, in my opinion, it's safer. In the case that your bird(s) decided to come out of the cage and they escaped your house, they're usually gone for good (though some birds have been able to be found by their previous owners). Plus, with the wings trimmed, it will make it easier for you to socialize with your birds, giving you all the bond you need between bird owner and bird. You can take your birds to a local veterinarian to have the wings trimmed. If the cage is small enough to pack into your car (or take on the bus), you can bring the entire cage the birds are living in into the vet's. This way, you don't need to try and catch them and put them into a smaller carrier.
Once the wings are trimmed, you can start letting the birds out of the cage. They will still be able to hop and fly a little bit, but not to the extreme measures as they would be able to achieve if their wings weren't trimmed. Start by letting them out on the floor. You should continue this daily for about 15 minutes until you think you can start interacting with them (it may take a couple times out of the cage until you and the birds are comfortable with this step). The most important "trick" a bird should know is the "step up" command. Here's a website I found that can show you how to teach your birds: Click Here
As you start to teach your birds this command, you'll realize that you're actually engaging and socializing with your birds! Once your birds are familiar with the "step up" command, you can continue doing this over and over again every time they come out of the cage to play. Make sure you've provided your birds with plenty of floor toys when they're out of the cage. For my cockatiel, I try to give him different toys that aren't usually in his cage to play with when he's out. This way, he's not use to the same toys and will have something new to look forward to every time he's out!

This whole process may take a couple months to master, but it'll be worth it in the long run. Good luck!

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Budgie Cage Requirements

Budgie cage requirements, what bird cages to avoid, recommended budgie cages...

Budgie Cage Requirements:

The cage should not be made of toxic metals such as zinc, lead, or brass (wet brass tarnishes - this tarnish is toxic). Stainless steel is best or powder-coated.
Do not put your budgie in a cage that is rusted or has chipping paint.
If you find an old cage in the attic, basement, trash-picking, or at a yard sale that only has a few rusty patches or a little chipping paint and you want to re-paint it for your budgie - DON'T. Throw it out and get a new cage on eBay. The cost of getting a cage sanded down and then powder-coated is more than you would pay for a new cage on eBay.
Big enough for the budgie to not only fully turn around and spread out their wings, but to fly from one side to another - a absolute minimum of 18x18x24.. Buy the biggest cage you can afford. Parrot cages are MUCH cheaper online than they are in the petstore. Please check ebay for new parrot cages at great prices!
Horizontal bars because budgies love to climb!
Width is more important than height as budgies fly horizontally.
Bar spacing should be no wider than 1/2 inch so that the budgie doesn't get their head stuck between the bars. Their heads are smaller than they look!
No round cages - a budgie doesn't feel safe in a round cage - there is no back wall to retreat to. Along the same lines, be sure there is a wall behind at least one side of the cage.
A good size rectangular cage is best - the palace shape or house shapes actually restrict the room the budgie has to fly and play and create a mess of poop and food the others do not.
Do not place the cage next to a window. Drafts can cause the budgie to become sick. Keep the cage out of direct sunlight.
Place the cage in a room you spend alot of time in (though not the kitchen - because of fumes and hot unsafe surfaces) but that will be quiet at night.
Budgies require alot of mental stimulation. Be sure they have lots of fun toys and that you rotate the toys frequently so that they do not become bored and so they get used to change.
Budgie-proof the room the budgie will be flying in by making sure no open water surfaces, open windows/doors, uncurtained windows, other pets, etc will harm them.
Be sure to cover the cage at night to provide darkness and a secure cover to prevent night-frights.
Several perches of varying widths are necessary to promote healthy feet and legs and to prevent foot sores caused by plain wooden dowels. We recommend the wood branch perches and rope perches.
Avoid: sand perch covers (cause foot sores), mite protectors (cause respiratory illness), bedding (breeds fungus and can cause crop impaction when injested) - paper towels or plain newsprint are best so you can watch poops for health.
Covered food and water dishes so budgies don't poop in them and get sick.
Cuttle bone to chew on. It's good for their beaks and provides needed calcium.
Use pipe cleaners or twist ties to secure all cage doors and windows. Budgies are smart little buggers and can quickly and easily figure out how to give themselves some unsupervised out time!
Place the best wood perches up high - and the stone ones that are good for toe nail health down low. Budgies like to be up high and will spend most of their time on the nicer perches that are good for their feet. We don't recommend using the wooden dowels that come with cages for anything other than step-ups and collecting budgies from around the room to return to their cages.
Make sure there is a food bowl for each budgie in the cage so that they don't have to fight over it or the dominant budgie doesn't let the other budgies near the food.
If you are going to have several budgies in the same cage - it's better to move them at the same time rather than moving a new bird into another's birds cage to avoid territorial issues.

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